New Adventures in Hi Fi
last updated: Friday, 02-Apr-2004 23:22:51 EST
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Just like my home, my car needs to have a good system to keep me happy.

Right now it's pretty sketchy, with the stock head unti driving a crack shack 50x2 thru a mess or wiring, and all the sound coming from the Infinity 602cs sets in the doors. The rear deck speakers ahve been disconnected permeanatly, as they're trashed beyond belief due to cone rot. I know it's not great, but I have grand plans. There's a JL Stealthbox and it's associated 10W6 waiting for the trunk, and an MTX500D to power it. An ADS PH15 will be going in to replace the crack shack monster. It's a real beauty. 6x55W, 3x 110.

One of the things I did was dampen the crap outta the doors. In order to do that there's a little bit of disassembly involved. One of the things you have to do is remove a milky white vapor barrier from the inside fo the door, so that it can be replaced by your new Dynamat or VB-2 or whatever you're using.

(59K)
616 x 409
Passenger door without the ugly plastic vapor barrier. Replacing it with VB-2HD was...interesting. The white goo is the worlds most annoying automotive adhesive. I hate it.

(53K)
421 x 395
This is what came out of the doors. It got wet, and the magnet, cone and label are all trashed.
For maximum stealth I hid the Infinity midbasses behind the stock grilles and stuffed the tweeters into the factory holes. Damn it was a lot of work.

(34K)
500 x 332
For modding the Infinity tweeters into the doors I had to use some tools that were...medieval to hack up the stock fascia.

(27K)
500 x 332
Slightly less medieval.

(25K)
500 x 332
The most medieval of all. I highly recomment wearing gloves when using this variety of double sided rasp. It's murder on your fingers.

(52K)
436 x 419
In the process of making the Infinity midbasses fit, I had to remove all of the stock mounting bracket except for the ring. That meant removing the stock drip shield. Here are the parts required to make the replacement drip guard.

(35K)
500 x 332
Cut the bottle into 2 strips, one of which is shown. Use double sided tape to secure them.

(42K)
500 x 332
This is what it should look like when you're done.
I took the opportunity to test out the combo of the MTX and the Stealthbox in the trunk. In true ghetto style the power was run out of the trunk, thru the cabin, out the passenger side window, and under the hood, where it was barely attached to the positive battery post. Ground was much easier, since there was a nearby hole int eh trunk that more than suited me. Input was on the left channel high level input, taken from the left rear deck speaker.

(63K)
737 x 344
8AWG stuffed into a 10AWG spade lug, then crammed into the B+ terminal clamp. Ugly.

(22K)
400 x 257
Good chassis ground connections are a requirement.

(56K)
600 x 398
Trunk, without carpet, but with Stealthbox and MTX500d. Yes, I know there isn't nearly enough dampening material, but after doing both doors inside and out I didn't ahve any left to do it right, so I did the best I could. VB3 will be going into the trunk lid, and the fender wells to help keep the bass inside the trunk.


Dave Paton        |        dave@dpaton.net        |